MICRODERMABRASION MATTERS

Microdermabrasion is one of the most popular treatments in salons but with such a proliferation of machines available how you choose the right one for your clients and your salon.  Angela Barbagelata-Fabes, Chairman of The Carlton Group, explains:

What is Microdermabrasion?

Microdermabrasion is a mechanical peeling process which aids the skin to improve its regenerative capabilities.  The aim of the treatment is to restore the balance of healthy cells and dead Corneocytes needed for our protection from the environment. A ‘normal’ skin should have approximately 65-70% living cells and 25-30% Stratum Corneum.

Microdermabrasion is used to treat skin problems such as scar tissue, pigmentation abnormalities and acne but its main use by beauty therapists is regeneration. After four weeks of treatment, with one treatment per week, the Stratum Corneum is normalised, there are an increased number of living cells and the basal membrane is restructured. The basal membrane responds to Microdermabrasion as though it were an ‘injury’, so to ‘repair the injury’ new germinative cells are produced.  Regular Microdermabrasion encourages new cells to be produced more often and these new cells also come to the surface more quickly than in the normal process, which in 25-35 year olds is approximately every 28 days but takes longer as the skin ages.

Microdermabrasion is appropriate for many conditions, including aged skin. It is vital that the skin is protected from the sun daily after the treatment, so a sunblock with an SPF over 15 is essential. 

Microdermabrasion complements other non-invasive facial treatments because it improves the texture of the skin and allows better absorption of other products, therefore enhancing results.  After care is very important as protection of newly abraded skin and hydration are key, so the therapist should prescribe homecare products to meet these requirements.

What types of Microdermabrasion are available?

There are two main types of Microdermabrasion treatment:

§  Crystal Microdermabrasion

§  Diamond Microdermabrasion

1. Crystal Microdermabrasion

All Microdermabrasion machines use crystals.  At The Carlton Group, we use a controlled flow of ultra clean Aluminium Oxide crystals.  The crystals are set in motion by vacuum created low pressure.

The Aluminium Oxide crystals are incredibly hard which means that it is possible to produce an extremely fine crystal, which is highly effective at abrading the Stratum Corneum (the outer layer of dead skin cells).   The form of the individual crystals is also important.  All crystals used by The Carlton Group have a round shape but with sharp edges to offer the combined benefits of excellent crystal flow and an abrasive effect at the same time.  These crystals are also completely inert so will not cause an allergic reaction and are washed in acid solution to meet the highest possible hygiene standards. 

On some machines, the intensity of the treatment, i.e. the rate of crystal flow and the vacuum pressure, and therefore the depth of peeling, is controllable. In this way the strength of peeling can be reduced for sensitive areas, such as the eyes or neck, or increased for less sensitive areas, such as the forehead and cheeks.

A ‘closed system’ is also used.  This means that the crystals only flow when the hand piece is placed on the skin.  This ensures absolute safety when using the machine, especially when treating areas close to the eyes. 

2. Diamond Microdermabrasion

Like Crystal Peeling, Diamond Microdermabrasion is an effective treatment which smoothes and regenerates the skin.  The treatment simply takes the natural process of skin renewal, which slows down as we age, and hastens it.  A fantastic anti-ageing treatment, Diamond Peeling leaves the skin feeling soft and silky and looking radiant.  In addition, as there are no crystals, and therefore no vacuum is required to remove them, the treatment is fast and virtually silent, as the diamond discs glide effortlessly over the skin performing the perfect peel. The use of speeds and a choice of diamond encrusted heads allow the treatment to be tailored for any skin type, from sensitive to oily.  Both Crystal and Diamond Microdermabrasion are abrasive treatments but Diamond is less aggressive due to the absence of vacuum.

What results can be achieved using Microdermabrasion?

• Improved cellular function and regeneration
• Enhanced effectiveness of active ingredients
• Rejuvenation for aged and damaged skin
• Reduction of pigmentation and the appearance of scarring

What contraindications should I be aware when using Microdermabrasion?

• Sensitive skin can be treated via the appropriate diamond head or with a low vacuum intensity
• It is unwise to treat clients with Psoriasis, Eczema or Neuro Dermitis, an allergy against milk and protein that renders the skin brittle and dry, or to combine Microdermabrasion with any other invasive peeling techniques.
• Broken skin, skin diseases, infections, cuts, abrasions, bruising, hypersensitive skin, broken veins and sunburn should be avoided
• Clients who are diabetics or those with acne should not be treated.
• Clients who have had Botox should wait 6 weeks before treatment, Dermal Fillers 8 weeks and Glycolic Peels 12 weeks

What about treatment times and frequency?

The number of treatments and their frequency is dependant on the condition of the client’s skin. 10-12 treatments are recommended to improve skin regeneration or a one off quick fix treatment could be used to brighten the skin.  Treatment times vary from 45 minutes to 1 hour.